Sovietwarplanes

Hi Everyone,

I wanted to share pictures before I glue the fuselage halves together, a milestone for this project. I have already set a personal record for the most time ever spent on such a small piece of plastic. Since this is the "Old Tool Kit" bought at a slashed price to make way for the "New Tool Kit," I also set a record for entertainment value per dollar. Even the film War and Peace does not last for months.

I plan to build it as an aircraft of the Sino-Japanese War flown by ace Liu Chi-Sheng. It is in standard VVS colors and has Chinese characters on the cowling proclaiming it was donated by the Overseas Chinese of Honolulu.

I scratchbuilt the floor, stick, seat, and some details. I originally painted the interior after replicas and museum aircraft, so I used RLM 65 and the floor and some details in FS 34079 Green. But after further research on this great site, I changed the color to overall AE-9 Gray, for which I used two parts Model Master #2109 French Light Blue Gray to one part MM FS 36440 Flat Gull Gray, a formula I found on the Internet. For this scale, I should have lightened it a bit with white. Enjoy the photos.

(http://i.imgur.com/hL6545Z.jpg?3)

(http://i.imgur.com/iJOdjHw.jpg?2)

(http://i.imgur.com/uV4wjvJ.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/Fpddcku.jpg?1)

TapedFingers

Wow, TP, that's a lot of detail in a tiny space!  I will be watching this one.

Regards,

Jason

Hi TapedFingers,
thank you for sharing the images of your work. The idea to complete it as a Chinese plane is interesting. The look of your Ae-9 looks convincing (on the last 3 photos). Is that orange wall destined to be mounted inside the plane?
Regards
Massimo

Thank you Jason and Massimo. I will try to post some more in-progress photos. The formula for AE-9 is from a great article on building the Eduard 1/48 scale I-16, which has other paint formulas as well:

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2008/09/eduard-i16.htm

The orange wall is supposed to be the fuel tank, but I have since learned the fuel tank is located closer toward the engine, and the space just past the cockpit floor is filled with ammo boxes, feed chutes, and the like. My tank can barely be seen through the cockpit, but I have now learned to be wary of using replicas and museum samples as references.
TapedFingers

Hi TP,
unfortunatelly, IPMS Stockholm built is not historically accurate:  There wasn't such thing as Green-Dark green scheme, Dark Green paint didn't exist, I-16s were never painted in AE-9 because AE-9 was paint for metal planes like SB or DB-3

Hi KL,

Thanks for setting the record straight. This is the reason I love this site.
TF

Hi Everyone,

I wanted a candid look, so I wanted to reposition the elevators, rudder, and ailerons. The problem with cutting the ailerons is they are wider on the bottom of the wing than on top. This means you have to cut at an angle to separate them from the wings. This scared me, so I had a couple of spare kits and considered sacrificing a set of wings for the ailerons, but in the end I took a knife and made repeated cuts at an angle that I started on the bottom of the wing (and luckily in the process not living up to my  nom de plume). Once they were apart, I faced the aileron sides with sheet plastic and shaped them with a sanding stick. Then it was sand, fill, and repeat to smooth the cut marks. You can see a couple of nasty knife slips repaired with putty. I made hinges from scrap plastic to show a little daylight between the ailerons and wing.

(http://i.imgur.com/RFIAMlv.jpg?1)

The elevators and rudder were easier to separate because they took 90 degree angles. Again, I faced off the cut surfaces with sheet plastic and shaped them with files and sandpaper. Modeling 101: Shape the joining surfaces concave on the non-moving parts and convex on the moving parts. Note the notches in the rudder. the bottom one is for two springs that connect to the rudder and tail skid. This was present on the I-15, I-15 bis, and I-153. Also note I drilled out the point on the fuselage where the stabilizer struts connected. I carved a rectangular extra space above this point to make room for the rudder control wires.

(http://i.imgur.com/Tl6T9U6.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/VKfUnXQ.jpg?1)

More next time.

TapedFingers

Hi TapedFingers,
looks a good work. A model of a Soviet-built plane in Chinese markings is unusual and interesting.
Regards
Massimo

Thank you Massimo. Here are a few more pictures.

I glued the cowling together and was a little too vigorous in trying to carve it with a hobby knife to a smooth shape, but a little putty patched it up. When I dry fitted the cowl to the fuselage, I could not get it to sit lower until I enlarged the hole in the fuselage in the bottom half. I also had to evenly enlarge the inner diameter of the exhaust collector.

(http://i.imgur.com/nhEBgL6.jpg?1)

In Massimo's review of the ICM kit on this site, I saw he had cut the portion of the cowling between the landing gear, so I did the same. It was hard to find a clear picture, so this is my best guess. This short section ended just past the cutout for the landing gear. I saw two holes as shown, and believe these are drainage holes with thin red tubes poking out of them.

(http://i.imgur.com/mMPvm6F.jpg?1)

I felt too lazy to dig out my airbrush, so I am painting with brushes and my shaky hands. I used Testors #2734 Chrome Silver and # 1181 Flat Aluminum mixed 50/50, but it went on a little thick and obscured detail. I masked and used the aforementioned AE-9 formula on the metal parts. The paint covered the fine panel lines, so I rescribed them, albeit a bit sloppily.

You can also make out the masking of the demarcation line between the silver dope and the green of the topside. Note how it wrapped around the edges. This must be a scale two inches (5 cm) at most.

(http://i.imgur.com/QIEGWkF.jpg?1) 

So the end is near and it is time to think of the finish. Here is a picture of the real thing. The two dapper gentlemen, dressed in white with matching pith helmets and canes, could have been a little more considerate and not blocked the view, but you can see the cowl where I have a question. The front ring of the cowl looks to be sprayed in another shade of green. I am guessing it is an olive drab similar to that used on American aircraft like Curtiss Hawks. The paint appears less reflective than the original gloss green. Also, it looks to spread toward the top of the cowl just above the Chinese characters. I would be interested in what others think. I lost the link and apologize for the poor quality of the picture. The front strap on the cowl is probably green.

(http://i.imgur.com/caCyagi.jpg?1)

Here is a link to the story of this ace, with a tiny picture of his plane. I postulate the second strap was the same color.

http://surfcity.kund.dalnet.se/china_chi-sheng.htm

The rest of the plane is relatively clean and in the standard VVS scheme. The tail stripes look very faded. You can make out what is apparently a unit marking and a stripe on the wing strut. I guess the marking is yellow and white and the stripe is red. For fun, here is a still from a YouTube video of #2204, probably of the same unit.

(http://i.imgur.com/ZdnLo0C.jpg?2)

I appreciate your comments.

Hi TapedFingers,

this little kit gives a lot of work, isn't it? To tell the truth I don't remember to have had need of much filler on my one, but I had to leghten the external wing struts. I read that other modellers have shortened the inner ones instead.
Looking at wartime photo, I think it has the original Soviet color, because the demarcation line on the fuselage is the same that on Soviet planes, and I see some blotches on the rear fuselage sides suggesting the deletion of the red star.
About the cut to the cowing, it looks fine. Some photos of the real thing:
(http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/i15/i15bis/i15bisevolution/I15bis-silverundersides2.jpg)
(http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/i15/i15bis/i15bisevolution/i15biswreck2.jpg)
They aren't the best photos available, but I've them already uploaded at
http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/i15/i15bis/i15bisevolution/i-152evolution.htm (http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/i15/i15bis/i15bisevolution/i-152evolution.htm)
The drawings on the monograph of Maslov show the same thing.

Regards
Massimo

(http://i.imgur.com/QIEGWkF.jpg?1)

Hi TF,
one correction:  metal panel was installed only under the right wing.  It was protecting fabric skin from flares used for night landings.

cheers,KL

Except for the one correction Konstantin (KL) mentioned, it looks good TP!  I look forward to the finished product!

Regards,

Jason

Thanks everyone. KL and Learstang, you saved me from AE-9 colored egg on my face. I somehow got it in my mind the panel and flare doors were on both wings. Tonight I used some sandpaper and a couple of coats of paint to make this project reasonably accurate again.

Massimo, thank you for the helpful information. Your research page is well thought-out and inspirational. I refer to it constantly.

I read about having to lengthen the wing struts and did it on mine without hesitation. I also thinned the inner struts and plan to fit them into holes I drilled in the fuselage to anticipate their stubbornness. Now that you have warned me, I am ready to lengthen them as necessary.

Your interpretation of the painted-out red stars is brilliant and exciting! This is a likely explanation because the Soviet Union rushed pilots and their front-line aircraft to help defend China. I will try to include this detail on my model because it is very interesting. It would especially stand out on the bottom of the wings, because this is the only area where the Chinese national insignia appears. On Lend-Lease aircraft, the red star was painted over the blue disc with the white star, and this is the complete opposite!
TF

Hi TP,
flare panel on ICM I-15bis model is wrong.  It really represents panel with retractable flares that was installed on later I-153s.  I-15bis had two "fixed" flares and panel was slightly closer to fuselage:

(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm13/klesnikov/Posted%20in%20forums/I-15bis_fakelyi.jpg)

(http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/396576152109P1090975bis.jpg)

Check excellent I-15bis built by Xan here:  http://sovietwarplanes.com/board/index.php?topic=1086.0

Cheers,
KL

Thank you KL, again, for showing me the egg on my face I had overlooked. Xan's nice model was one of my inspirations, but I got confused by the elusive panel location. Now it all makes sense. My strategy is to find the location of the landing lights and then use it as the central point to create the panel. I will also use the national insignia as my guide because the lines happily coincide near the outline on the star. The light covers and rivets will disappear. I owe it to you KL, and Xan, and all the others who came before me to create a reasonably accurate asbestos panel, for the torch has been passed! (Extreme apologies for the silly pun.) I hope to show it off soon.  :) TF

Hi Everyone,

Here is my best guess at the sheet metal protective panel for the removable landing lights. I will probably drill holes for the lights but leave them off because not many pictures show them in use, probably because they would likely be used only for night missions. More progress soon. TF

(http://i.imgur.com/mp7fqBF.jpg?1)

I feel very proud, thanks a lot
I don't know about chinese coulours. where the planes repainted or do they ware VVS colours ?
French planes such as the dewoitine D.510 were repainted...
Xan

I don't know either.  Later during the WWII, the Chinese repainted I-153s in what looks like American Olive Drab.

(http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/5625/126007.e/0_7b78a_6a0068e7_XL.jpg.jpg)

(http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/6435/126007.d/0_7b787_76cd1883_XL.jpg.jpg)

For 1938, I would leave I-15bis in its original Soviet colours...  Like this drawing that shows defence of Lanchzhou on February 22, 1938

(http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/6418/126007.7/0_75825_b6e47ad3_XL.jpg)


Yes, French Devoitine D-510s were repainted in what looks like I-16 colours

(http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/6416/126007.7/0_75829_a89764d6_XL.jpg)

Those keeping score take note I have painted a second coat of FS 34079 green, and it's starting to take wing.

Thank you KL and Xan. The pictures I have seen show the standard VVS scheme and colors. It looks like later I-15 Bis's were repainted and had a lower demarcation line between upper and lower colors. These two photos are not too clear, and it is hard to tell what colors they used.

(http://i.imgur.com/pe5MxVh.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/auTnuhr.jpg?1)

It is interesting to note that the Chinese modified some Bis's with parts and engines from Curtiss Hawk III's and added ailerons to the lower wings to create the Jung-28B. A photo of a ground-looped example appears in Squadron/Signal Polikarpov Fighters Part II, that clearly shows the changes. The following article on how to modify a I-15 Bis kit to this hybrid inspired me to plan my own project in the future:

http://www.aviationofjapan.com/2013/03/johan-de-wolf-converts-avusk-i-152-to.html

Further information on the Jung-28B, I-15 Bis, and I-153 in Chinese service can be found at this interesting site:

http://cwlam2000.0catch.com/caf36.htm

Finally, one of the sites I used in my research had a link to incredible Japanese newsreel footage of a I-15 Bis attacking a Japanese bomber formation! The bomber footage starts around the 4 minute mark and the defensive attack is around 5:30.

http://cgi2.nhk.or.jp/shogenarchives/jpnews/movie.cgi?das_id=D0001300393_00000&seg_number=003

Till next time...TF

Progess...

More pictures of Chinese Air Force I-15 Bis's are here:

http://crimso.msk.ru/Site/Crafts/Craft19934.htm

Since I am using a brush, I tried to use several light coats, but got carried away and put on a coat that was too thick and left brush marks. It looked like a disaster. Then I tried an automotive clear coat scratch remover, and it saved the day by leveling the paint and making the brush marks less noticeable. I used "Scratch Out" by Kit Wax, but other products should give similar results. The photos show several coats of Model Master Dark Green, FS 34079, polished with small amounts of the scratch remover mixed with water. I did not use an overcoat because the polishing left a nice smooth semi-gloss.

(http://i.imgur.com/A6cQlwK.jpg?1)

The unit marking on the wing struts came from an Aviation Usk decal sheet that has markings for several different CAF fighters in including the subject of my model. It also has the ID# "2709" for the rudder but lacks the characters on the cowling. The red stripes on the struts are from spare decals.

Next comes some black wash in the panel lines before I install the struts and wings. This is slow going but I am not in a hurry. Have fun.
TF

You are doing a good detailing and a very nice brush paintwork on your I-15bis.Excellent research on the subject,the links are very useful (the modifed plane with Curtiss Hawk cowling and whells is an interesting modelling subject),thanks a lot for these.
Keep on with the good work,greetings.

Martin

Thank you for your kind words, Martin.

I decided to work more on the fuselage before I added the top wing because its easier to work with it out of the way.

I made the sight from a piece of paperclip (small). The back end has a piece of wire insulation stuck on it, and I made details from wire. I wrapped foil to simulate straps and painted the whole thing with Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black. I heat-formed the canopy from a clear plastic package heated over a candle and pulled over the kit canopy as a master. Self-criticism for posterity: The sight could be a little thinner. Also, there is a covering where the sight comes out of the canopy, and mine is over-sized because I used a piece of wire insulation. Next time (ha!), I would simulate the area with common pva glue.

(http://i.imgur.com/dzJ3pFy.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/VXcF0mE.jpg?1)

I replaced the kit tail skid with one I shaped from solder: After I flattened it with pliers, I carved, filed, it and sanded it. The covering is from wire insulation. I will add a reinforcing plate at the tip using foil. The cover is probably green, but I'm not sure what the skid color is, so I am leaving it natural metal.

(http://i.imgur.com/tqyOr3O.jpg?1)

I debated the tail stripe colors. I believe they should be the same mid-to-dark blue as shown in the color pictures in this thread and on the decal sheet shown. In black and white photos, however, they appear lighter, which suggests they were faded. I went with the faded theory and used decals from the Encore boxing of the kit. It looks okay from a yard away. I touched up the edges with Model Master 2131, Russian Flanker Medium Blue, mixed with a little dark blue. For the roundels, I plan to use a darker color, since they are only on the bottom of the lower wings.

The aircraft numbers on the Aviation Usk sheet are the correct font and size but and are too close together. I plan to separate them to get the correct spacing.

(http://i.imgur.com/OW8jIiV.jpg?1)

I hope to show more progress soon.
TF

Good detail work, TF!

Regards,

Jason

Hi TF, an huge work.
Regards
Massimo

Thank you Jason and Massimo. This time I dry-fitted the top wing to get the correct alignment while the glue on the interplane struts was drying so I could get the correct alignment. I used a wire pin in the top of each strut and a corresponding hole in the top wing. I broke the struts more than once because they are fragile.

(http://i.imgur.com/2eA9ax0.jpg?1)

Then I added the center section rigging from stretched sprue but only glued it to the top wing. Once the glue dried and set the rigging at the correct angles, I took the top wing off and used dabs of PVA to add the cuffs on the ends. I painted these gray.

(http://i.imgur.com/TfkcDBh.jpg?1)

I added the center section struts next. I had cut the forward ones off because I thought it would fit better. I had also drilled holes in the fuselage to accept them. You can see the struts are a bit askew, but I have grown impatient and let them be. They would probably would have fit fine if I left them alone.

(http://i.imgur.com/ZnunlyU.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/0uDKe7r.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/mGbqoQL.jpg?1)

The cowling needs to be dry-fitted to ensure the bracing goes through the slots. I had to trim them to fit. I also added the slots for the center section bracing.

(http://i.imgur.com/tm0IQ6w.jpg?1)

Speaking of the cowling, I regret I cut the front cover off because I do not feel like detailing the engine anymore. I believe the subject had the cover in place but thought I would make it look different by removing it. I might add it back with the help of a spare kit. We will see. Next I tackle the part that has given me nightmares: the flying wires with their tandem configuration. This is my first biplane since I was ten years old. See you next time. TF

Hi TF,
your huge work is continuing.
If I  remember well, I made some simplifications on the wiring of my one, I made only one wire where two wires had to be coupled in tandem.
Regards
Massimo

Thank you again Massimo. I enjoyed your article and it served as an inspiration. You had many insights like the cowl shape and the interpretation of the colors, and I admire the overall effect.

I lied in my last post and decided to work on the cowl and engine before the rigging. I took the cowl from my spare kit and using a pin in a pin vise, I made repeated circles around the engine face plate from the outside and then the inside until it came loose. Surprisingly, it came off in one piece, more or less, and fits well enough to display on or off the model. I decided not to replace the two gun barrel extensions and drilled them instead. I glued plastic rod to the back of each barrel to give it dimension.

(http://i.imgur.com/LTA2A8V.jpg?2)

I made the bands around the cowl by pre-painting matte finish transparent tape and cutting it into strips. This was harder than it sounds. I have heard of other modelers building up the area with paint, which sounds easier. Nevertheless, I am happy with how it turned out. I painted the front of the cowl olive drab, and it gives an interesting look.

(http://i.imgur.com/t5l7PbS.jpg?2)

I was going to cover it, but decided to wire the engine anyway (masochist, remember?). I used too large a diameter wire for the spark plug wires, but it turned out okay. Maybe I should build in 1/48 scale. I did not bother to drill holes in the engine cylinders to accept the wires.

(http://i.imgur.com/I8kwcm1.jpg?2)

I drilled out the upper gun barrel extensions and air intake. I made the upper gun barrel tubes with a plastic tube (a coffee stirrer, I believe)  stretched after heating it over a candle. 

(http://i.imgur.com/LzAVDFl.jpg?2)

Next I will work on the Chinese characters on the cowl. This should be exciting! :) TF

Very nice work, again, TF!

Regards,

Jason

Thank you Learstang. For the slogan on the cowl, which roughly translates as "Honolulu Overseas Chinese," I started by getting the proper Chinese characters in the right font from the Internet.

 (http://i.imgur.com/sQ4ONqM.png?1)

Then I cleaned up the images in a drawing program because I thought the white space would disappear when the image was reduced. I made the white spaces bigger. This is a matter of personal taste, as we shall see. Next I copied it into a word processing program in several sizes. I printed these onto clear decal paper and picked the size that fit the best.

(http://i.imgur.com/c3ZwBtS.jpg?1)

Now the challenge was making the characters white. Instead of trying new techniques and products, I painted over the black images with white paint on the decal paper and then cut them out. I touched up as necessary.

(http://i.imgur.com/s5IlNzP.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/z87dG36.jpg?1)

The original article has strokes that change in thickness and size and are proportioned like calligraphy from a professional sign maker. My rather anemic and uniform lines look more like a sign made by children to advertise a yard sale, but it looks passable from three feet away.

Next is to tackle the rigging. I have made some headway and will describe it next time.  TF

Hi Everyone,

The rigging was pretty straightforward. I had drilled holes in the wings, fuselage, and  cowling to accept the stretched sprue. I used this rectangular cross section piece of plastic, which a server had conveniently stuck to a lemon in my drink. Here it is showing its other use as a great looking seatbelt buckle for 1/18 scale cars:

(http://i.imgur.com/DyBF7.jpg)

I started with the center wire then the two outside wires. I got as much slack out as I could by carefully fitting them before I used cyanoacrylate applied with the tip of a pin. I used a burning stick of incense held close to the sprue to straiten it if necessary. My wires were nearly too thick for this technique to work. Use a piece of paper or aluminum foil to protect the other wires from the heat, if you need to.

(http://i.imgur.com/I48CLBK.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/UpAx8Nv.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/jT712IP.jpg?1)

I found the best way to duplicate the spacers is with PVA applied with a thin piece of sprue. I tried using a small piece of spure before adding the PVA, but this is difficult and not necessary. Build up the PVA to the proper shape. I also used PVA to build up the covers at the base of the wires. You may want to add a small amount of acrylic paint to make the PVA easier to see.

(http://i.imgur.com/ZdTRtNu.jpg?1)

(http://i.imgur.com/1XdmuK9.jpg?1)

I hope that my next post will show the finished product.
TF

Nice work on the rigging, TF!

Regards,

Jason

Hi TF,
here I am back from holidays.
Very hard work indeed. A burning piece of incense... seems it has worked well.
Regards
Massimo

Thank you Jason and Massimo. I am calling it finished for now.

(http://i.imgur.com/35OL5Ir.jpg?6)

(http://i.imgur.com/zmc4pbo.jpg?4)

(http://i.imgur.com/ziUbzYz.jpg?4)

(http://i.imgur.com/UjC8rmA.jpg?3)

(http://i.imgur.com/S2PTSMX.jpg?3)

I made the hinges from transparent tape I pre-painted. I find the self-stick property helpful.

(http://i.imgur.com/KzqLoce.jpg?3)

(http://i.imgur.com/PqHQMo2.jpg?3)

I made the number on the tail with the only white numbers I found in my spare decal collection, a nearly forty-year-old ESCI decal for the FW-200. I coated the decal with Microscale Superfilm before attempting to cut them out. I made the "P" from a "1" and the top part of a "2." This was on one side. On the other side, I made the less successful looking one from a "1" and the top part of a "9." Try to spot which side. Afterwards, I saw one source that says the number should be "P-1763," and I have no reason to doubt this, interpreting from the blurred images I have.

(http://i.imgur.com/DhbXkru.jpg?3)

Than you all for your help and comments. This is my first finished airplane in 25 years and my first rigged biplane. I will take a breather and build a two -foot-long modern submarine that has a few parts--big ones--and will paint it with spray cans.  :)

Very nice work, all your efforts have led to an excellent model. It has much more details than the kit out of the box.
What is your next project? Another Soviet plane?
Regards
Massimo

Thank you Massimo. I might build a Mig-25 or an I-16 after I recover with a submarine. I would like to make a correction: the reference says the tail number should be "P-7163." TF

Excellent job, TF!  Hard to believe this is your first attempt at rigging.

Regards,

Jason

Hi TapedFingers, a submarine... what kind of?
Regards
Massimo

Thank you Jason and Massimo. A friend gave me a Trumpeter 1/144 scale "Kilo" class submarine, the same type where there was a fatal explosion recently in India. I may build that one to remember the victims. Then it's back to aircraft. I also have an Airfix Wallace & Gromit kit that looks fun. Something that does not involve tweezers is what I need now. TF

A Kilo in 1/144... looks an huge model. I didn't know of the accident to the Indian submarine.
Regards
Massimo