Sovietwarplanes

Hello everybody!
After a WW1 period, I'm back to the Red Stars.
I started the beautiful Zvezda 1/48 Petlyakov Pe-2 deaaling with the mysterious windscreen lines. See this topic:
http://massimotessitori.altervista.org/sovietwarplanes/board/index.php?topic=2168.0
After some headache, I decided to malke them red. I initially thought they were white but, after seeing that on a flight simulator they had been rendered red, I thought that this colour was better than white for aiming purpose, especially on a snowy landscape. However, any discussion on this item is welcome.
I used decals, trying to cut them as thin as possible.
(https://s9.postimg.org/gvkv2o55b/180204_001_Pe2.jpg)
(https://s9.postimg.org/dbyxcva5b/180204_002_Pe2.jpg)
(https://s9.postimg.org/ta7n30c33/180204_003_Pe2.jpg)
(https://s9.postimg.org/k2fembcqn/180204_006_Pe2.jpg)
Maybe they are thicker than they should, but on the real piece they look thinner than on the magnified picture. At least, to my eyes...  8)

One of my many obsessions, beside detail, is trying to make sturdy models. The thin plastic antenna mast on the windscreen, connected by wires to the tail and even to the canopy side window, did not give me a great sense of confidence. I had two ways to strengthen it: making a resin copy with a steel wire embedded in it, or inserting the wire in the original mast carefully drilled through. I tried the second way and, despite some difficulties, thanks to the strong and elastic plastic I succeeded. The mast is now really stiff, it just needs a bit of filling and sanding.
(https://s9.postimg.org/6180ekqvj/180204_007_Pe2.jpg)
(https://s9.postimg.org/dtyo6k4kf/180204_009_Pe2.jpg)
(https://s9.postimg.org/cex3hub73/180204_010_Pe2.jpg)

Massimo, the pictures are 800x600. Tell me if they are too big.

Hi Otto,
really well made! A thin hole passing through the whole mast... I'm admired for such a machining work.
Regards
Massimo

I am slowly approaching the moment of painting the interiors of the Pe-2. Zvezda proposes the following colors:
- Humbrol 129 Gull Grey for the interior fuselage surfaces.
- Humbrol 125 Dark Grey for bomb bay, wheel bays and engine nacelles interior.
- Humbrol 117 US Light Green for cockpit parts like seats, shelfs, frames, boxes...
These assumptions seem to be based on the Pe-2 in Monino. The "grey and green" interior colors seems to be confirmed by other sources, as Tu-2 in Monino and some wartime wrecks. The two shades of grey seem quite strange to me.
https://igor113.livejournal.com/71576.html
http://svsm.org/gallery/pe-2?page=1


My assumption is the following:
- A-14 (I have the AKAN paint) for the interior fuselage surfaces, bomb bay, wheel bays and engine nacelles interior.
- Green (Monino Pe-2 and Tu-2 show two shades, one "bright" and the other one more "olive") for cockpit parts like seats, shelfs, frames, boxes...
- Scratches should show yellowish primer ALG-1.

Please, does anybody have a reliable information on this issue?

Hi Otto,
interesting question... looking at the landing gear bays and bomb bays of the Pe-2, excluding all the surfaces that have clearly been repainted, I think to see a grey-olive that could resemble the primer ALG-5. Of course, could also be a grey that has become yellowish during the years.
About the light green, I've seen a piece of a seat of MiG-3, wrecked but with well preserved paint, that look as that light green of the bombs rack in the bay.
I would check on wartime photos if the lightness of the landing gear legs is compatible to that or is lighter.
Regards
Massimo

So the inner but not "inhabited" surfaces could have been ALG-5, while A-14 and green could have been applied in the fuselage/cockpits. I suppose that chipping exposing the layer under cockpit A-14 and green should be ALG-1, is this correct?

Hi,
I think so. I see some parts painted with light blue-grey too, I don't know if it was a later retouching or a third color inside, or even the original color.
Regards
Massimo

Among the odd White Ensign VVS paints, based on EP charts, I found the ACS10 "AMT-1" which is a yellowish gray. Light years from the real AMT-1, but it seems to me quite similar to ALG-5:
(https://s31.postimg.cc/9vc1wko2j/WEM_ACS10.jpg)
I could use it for bomb and undercarriage bays, what do you think?

Hi Otto,
I have not the original one to make a comparison, but I think that the color should be more yellow-green than this.  Maybe you could use the can as a base for a mix with some olive green.
Regards
Massimo

Thank you Massimo! I must say that the real WEM color is more yellowish than that shown in the picture. I have plenty of useless WEM EP-style colors to mix. ;)

Hi Otto,
I think to  have seen photos of WEM AMT-1 side by side with paints of other brands, I just don't remember the page. If you think that the color is similar to ALG-5, I can't criticise on the base of this photo only.
Please, keep me informed on your color tests.
Regards
Massimo

I made a mix of WEM greys ACS10 and ACS05, plus Humbrol yellow 74. I will send a picture, but I don't want to be too pedantic on a primer color. We modellers are strange people: we always look for the perfect paint match and then, after pre-shading, washes, post-shading, paneling, desaturation, weathering, we get something completely different but, in our mind, a perfect scaled-down effect of the real color.  :-\

Hi Otto,
you are right, all those effects alter by much the shade, so the quest for shade accuracy can easily be scarcely rewarding in an area full of nervures and other details.
I wait to see how your work is going.
Regards
Massimo

Hello Massimo
The upper "chip" is my "ALG-5" made mixing White Ensign greys ACS10 and ACS05, and pale yellow Humbrol 74. Unfortunately, I don't have the rate of this mixing. You can compare it with the AKAN A-14 chip in the middle below it.
(https://s7.postimg.cc/8diybwkcr/Cattura1.jpg)

I show you some chips of some browns I have in my stash. Is there anything I could use as A-21m for three tone camouflage? It seems to me that the best are the three on the right:
Lifecolor UA039 (perhaps too green)
Humbrol 72
White Ensign ACJ16 (the Mitsubishi Zero Ame-iro!)
(https://s7.postimg.cc/rwnjl7dyj/180426_008_Pe2.jpg)
What do you think?
Of course, I could buy the AKAN colors, but I would prefer to use the colors I have before they dry out in the jars.

I painted the fuselage inside with A-14. I first applied a layer of Tamiya XF-19, then some preshading with brown XF-64 and white in the panels' middle and on the frames top. I then sprayed AKAN's A-14, and I found I made a mistake: the brown is too reddish and the fuselage looked like a rusty train! >:( I would better have used black or green for preshading. I therefore insisted with A-14 to cover most of the "rusty" shadow effect. I will complete the job with thinned oil paint selective washes and lighter dry-brush on the frames.
The 1st picture shows the preshading and the 2nd one the A-14, with the shadows still showing through it.
(https://s7.postimg.cc/4ik5n1vpn/180426_003_Pe2.jpg)
(https://s7.postimg.cc/yah82bau3/180426_005_Pe2.jpg)
I was really impressed by the AKAN paint's quality: thinned with yellow cap Tamiya thinner, it dries quickly and gives a strong, smooth and satin finish.

Hi Otto,
I would put a bit of olive green in that ALG-5.
About your browns: UA039 seems to match my chip of A-21 of AK interactive AK-2248, while the shade of MRP-22 (their A-21) looks darker and more grey-chocolat-like. I wonder if they both are from the same chips (ie from AKAN, I think). I would go with UA039.
About the preshading: I think that dark grey would have been better than brown, but now it's made and looks of good effect.
Goodto know that AKAN paints can be thinned with Tamiya solvant. I think you have the acrilic enamels, not the enamels or aqueous paint.
My tests with AK  by brush weren't very satisfying, i needed three or four unthinned layers to cover the white background. Maybe it will be better by airbrush, I need to find a proper solvant (maybe available in my town).
Have you heard about any experiences with AK?
Regards
Massimo

I never tried AK colors. I suppose that, if you need many layers with brush, they should be airbrush-ready. AKAN colors are rather thick, like Lifecolors, and are acrylics because they can be thinned by water. These colors usually react positively to Tamiya thinners, both white cap and yellow cap. The yellow cap is a lacquer thinner and has amazing propertes: it can be mixed with acrylics, enamels like Humbrol and putties like Mr. Surfacer. Tamiya acrylics mixed with it dry quicker than with the traditional white cap, and are more resistant to fingerprints. I suggest to try it with AK as well.

There is a feature which has been ignored on Zvezda kit and on all the built models I saw:
(https://s7.postimg.cc/jjczln8rv/punev-pe2a.jpg)
The red arrows show what seem to me buckles of straps holding the canopy in place. I suppose that the entire canopy could be jettisoned, perhaps pulling the red handle shown below.
(https://s7.postimg.cc/b2dhaw44r/Cattura1.jpg)

Any suggestions?

Hi Otto,
I had a look on Squadron Signal, no any image of Pe-2 (apart for a plane tested for structural strength) show any open or removed canopy. I think you are right, the access was from ventral hatches and the whole thing was likely jettisonable. I wonder why the levers of the fasteners are pushed down on this plane. I wonder if there is any defect in the fastener.
Regards
Massimo

Hello Massimo, I think the open elements are not opening levers, but simple flap covers that are loose or bent. Some pictures show them open, including in the Pe-2 preserved in Monino.
(https://s7.postimg.cc/raqjg0rob/O_1108059953_Oa_gozm.jpg)

Hi Otto,
I see the fastening belt misaligned over the windshield's frame. Perhaps this is the cause of the bad closing of the thing.
I wonder if such a frail detail will deserve a reproduction.
Regards
Massimo

Hello everybody.
I prepared a picture of light blue chips made with the paints I have in my shelf.
(https://s22.postimg.cc/r7na8yw1d/180708_002_AMT7_A28m.jpg)
Akan AMT-7 looks a little dark to me, while White Ensign Models (WEM) ACS02, based on EP "researches" seems too bright. According to Sovietwarplanes table of colors, A-28m should be lighter than AMT-7.
As Akan paints are very good colors, I would like to use their AMT-7, but is it correct for a late war Pe-2?
I checked Massimo's light blue color charts here:
http://www.massimotessitori.altervista.org/sovietwarplanes/pages/colors/humbrol/light-blues.htm
In my opinion, the best matches with A-28m are:
Aeromaster 9074
Humbrol mix 1/2 65 + 1/2 47 + white
WEM mix 2/3 ACS02 + 1/3 ACSM07

I would not choose a too dark paint, because all the washing, weathering and so on tend to darken the finish.
Could you share your opinion about the best match?
Thank you.

Hi Otto,
the difference in shade of AMT-7 and A-28m is dubious: the Nakrasok alboom has a very pale and greenish chip, while A-21g is saturate just as AMT 7, but theoretically should be as A-28m.  The chips from another Soviet collection seem to confirm the resemblance between AMT-7 and A-28m. It is not clear why the chip of Nakrasok is different, maybe could be of an altered stock.
So, in my opinion you can go with AKAN AMT-7. Eventually you could lighten it in some way to simulate fading.
About the colors of Humbrol, the closer one is missing in your list, should be H89, just a bit too dark and saturate to be a perfect match.
I've seen a can of humbrol 248 Himmelblau 78 in a shop and had the impression that it could be a match, just a bit lighter, but I never bought or utilized that paint.
Regards
Massimo

Thank you, Massimo!
I will use Akan AMT-7 as a base and test one of the lighter shades, perhaps Aeromaster 9074, for panel centre lightening.
I hope to post pictures of the completed interiors soon.

I completed the interiors:
(https://s33.postimg.cc/akbcbw42n/180714_004_Pe-2.jpg)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/p3ihdbcn3/180714_008_Pe-2.jpg)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/cc4b6takv/180714_010_Pe-2.jpg)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/5lntxdv4v/180714_014_Pe-2.jpg)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/v4g6aeu4f/180714_015_Pe-2.jpg)

Hi Otto,
very nice work. The inside looks rather complete and lovely. Have you utilized photoetched belts on the seats?
What about the glazing of the lateral windows, is it from the kit?
Regards
Massimo

Thank you, Massimo.
I used aftermarket sets at "full throttle": photoetched parts, "superfabric" seatbelts and resin guns from Eduard, photoetched pre-assembled instrument panel from Yahu. Zvezda kit is superb, and it deserves luxury treatment! Superfabric seatbelts are soft and highly realistic.
The clear parts are from the kit. Zvezda clear parts have pros and cons. They are thin and clear, and they are rather flexible, therefore less fragile than competitors. But the latter feature makes polishing more difficult. Polishing is necessary if clear parts get foggy or scratched from manipulation. In this case, the best results can be obtained by polishing them with Tamiya compound and, finally, with a small amount of floor wax applied with a goggles cleaning cloth.

Hi Otto,
superfabric seatbelts? They were new for me, I've googled to see about them. The same for the impressive instrument panels of Yahu.
The thing about canopies is interesting too. Thin, clean and flexible ones sound excellent. Good to now that they are difficlt to restore if scratched, it will require extra care.
Looking at the cockpit of the rear gunner, I wonder how he will pass from one gun to another. Looks that ergonomy of those positions was deemed an unnecessary option.
Regards
Massimo

The rear gunner who sat directly behind the pilot on the small stool operated only the 12.7 gun in the turret.
The radio operator, who sat rearwards in the middle of the fuselage, operated the rearwards-downwards 12.7 gun and the 7.62 side gun. The latter could be moved from one side to the other.

This is the crew position.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/8n2hqlczv/Cattura.jpg)

Interesting cutaway, thank you for sharing. Do you know what  the large box on the wall behind the head of the radio operator is? I suppose that 30 is the radio box and 29 is a camera.

The box behind the radio operator's head should be a part of the radio system.
These two links of flight simulator sites show many interior details. I don't know how accurate they are, but they are nice.
http://www.unbound-frogs.org/wikil2/doku.php?id=manuel_des_appareils:vvs:pe-2_ser87
http://spartanwarfighters.com/xoops/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=1291

Good images indeed, thank you for sharing. One ShKAS for each side... it had to be difficult to move in that space.

I decided to buy the Akan set N. 47347, containing six paints for VVS GPW metal bombers:
A-26m, A-28g, A-28m, A-21m, A-24m and A-32m.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/57jnjhomj/180724_001_Akan_set_47347.jpg)
A-28m seems too greenish, perhaps it replicates weathered paint. I would use A-28g with A-28m for panel lightening effects. What do you think?

Hi Otto,
sounds as a good choice, Just, I never use to lighten the central part of panels, eventually I put into evidence the recesses by a dark thinned color.
Regards
Massimo

I found this picture in the web.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/drqz4kqcr/image.jpg)
It's of the version I am planning to build: late type, with antenna mast on the windscreen and single exhaust collectors on the engines.
My assumptions about this interesting livery are the following:
- Three color standard camouflage with white MK-7 field-applied paint.
- The white paint seems partially removed by wear, but also not applied on the whole aircraft from the beginning. I'm not sure if the dark part of the left wing is a shadow (light comes from right), or a zone left without white paint except from some patches.
- The MK-7 white is applied around the red part of the stars, covering the white/red edges. The white contour around the rudder star is only partially applied.
- The number aft of the fuselage star seems to me a 23, perhaps red.

Any opinions on my asumptions or information about this Pe-2 are welcome.

Hi Otto,
very good image. it looks a good choice.
You've analized it finely. The dark zone on the left wing is certainly the shadow of te fuselage, its final shape is exactly what geometrically expected.
Details of the wings can be seen in the shadow, it is just a bit less white of the other one and with the sme dark stain traces.
23 is practically sure. The font of 3 is the most traditional western style, not that an oblique bar that resembles 5.
I am surprised for what I think to see over the side window, it could be a curved slogan, unfortunately unreadable. Eventually you can read it as a stroke of white paint or a defect of the photo, none will prove the contrary.
Regards
Massimo

Thank you, Massimo. It seems to me that over the side window there are only white stains, but who knows? ???
The top and side of the fuselage between the canopy and the tailplane seems to me mostly without white paint, and not dark due to shadow because some white patches are visible. What do you think?

Hi Otto,
I agree that there is no white paint on the top of the fuselage apart for the tail area. Perhaps it was washed by rain.
There is a white dot on the nose, but not definided to say that it was an emblem.
A lot of rumor as lines, inscriptions and such things are visible on the photo, so it is always better to choose the minimal interpretation. Eventually, it is easier to add something new on a completed model than to delete something that shouldn't be there.
Regards
Massimo

The last developments.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/90oo56g0b/180820_004_Pe2.jpg)

(https://s15.postimg.cc/5ico8b9u3/180826_009_Pe2.jpg)

I will probably go on with the "Red (?) 23" with worn-out winter camouflage shown in-flight on the picture I published before. Being it a poorly documentated subject, I ask, as usual, Massimo and everybody else to debete my assumptions listed below.

1) The A-XXm oil paints are applied on metal surfaces without primer, thus chipping and scratches show natural aluminium under the paint. Is this correct?

2) While the stars appear to be the factory-applied ones surrounded by MK-7 white paint, the number 23 seems to be applied over the white paint. Looking at pictures of other aircraft, this seems quite a common practice.

3) The spinner tips look dark. I think they are factory-camouflaged with the white worn or applied on the rear part only.

4) Looking at the pictures below, it seems to me that not all late-type Pe-2s had the thin red edge around the white outline of the stars.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/3lkjhgt4b/1356408973_78150659.jpg)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/i4roiwou3/Pe-2_crew_zpsymzxqxel.jpg)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/5ddicg4sb/pe2-flightbear.jpg)
For this subject, painting the stars is easier than using the decals, so I would assume that this aircraft had stars without thin red edge. What do you think?

Thank you for your patience!

Hi Otto,
great to see that your model is going on well.
I don't know if A-xxm paints were utilized on Pe-2s. I see that the colors on Pe-2s are often well contrasted in photos and without massive chipping, my impression is that they utilized AMT paints with primer. I can't be sure without some research, but I know for sure that early pe-2s had ALG-1 primer under the green-blue paint.
About the red outline on the stars: it is difficult to say from the 1st photo and the 3rd one, but the second one shows the outline clearly.  I would suppose that this is the most usual case.
Regards
Massimo

Thank you Massimo! I used AKAN A-XXm paints because they were intended for metal bombers including Pe-2s  :-\. Do you think ALG-1 was used under these paints also? I did not plan to make "Japanese style" chipping, just some wearing around maintenance walking zones: I would like to know whether showing ALG-1 yellow or not.

Hi Otto,
perhaps Il-4s had not primer, were painted in A-xxm paints and very scratched, but I am not sure, it is an idea I made observing bw photos.
In my idea, it is possible to see yellow under the chipping of Pe-2, but I can't prove it for mid/late production planes.
Regards
Massimo

Thank you Massimo, I will assume ALG-1 primer. I add other pictures. I modified some patches to better match the official templates, although it seems the real aircraft did not follow them strictly. I did not decide yet if making the winter camouflaged Pe-2 or a standard one.
(https://s8.postimg.cc/fq42y2uph/180826_005_Pe2.jpg)

(https://s8.postimg.cc/t711h27mt/180826_009_Pe2.jpg)

Hi Otto,
Pe-2s often show camouflages that are a mix between the official templates. The look of the model is excellent so far.
Regards
Massimo

Finally, I chose the well known, but evocative, "Leningrad-Koenigsberg" subject. It needs some more oil washes before spraying the matt varnish.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/k8aidvwpn/180901_002_Pe2.jpg)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/wzookfw7v/180901_003_Pe2.jpg)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/yrhnfd2q3/180902_003_Pe2.jpg)

I have to paint the wheel discs. Can you please help me choosing the colour? I painted them dark green on my MiG-3, as shown in colour pictures. What's the correct colour for a late war Pe-2? The same green? ALG-5? A-14? ???????

Hi Otto, great work up to here.
About wheels, I don't know for sure. I would go with dark green.
Is the slogan a decal, or painted by masking?
Regards
Massimo

Thank you, Massimo! The slogan is a decal from Zvezda Box. They are printed by Begemot, and are very thin and gloss. Unfortunately, the stars are slightly out of register and needed some touch-up. I don't like decals because it's always difficult to hide the edge. It's not about silvering: if the decal is good and you apply them on a glossy surface, improving adhesion with softeners, no silvering occurs. But it's not enough: the edge around the clear film of the decal is ALWAYS visible. My technique to hide it, when it's not possible to contour the decals, is the following.
-1. Spray a coat of Tamiya clear gloss X-22, diluted with thinner X-20A. WARNING! Apply several coats of well thinned varnish avoiding drippings, and at the end spray pure thinner to avoid "orange skin" effect.
-2. When the varnish is dry (at least 1 day) apply the decals and press them gently with toilet paper, if necessary cut them around movable surfaces like rudders. Brush a small amount of Micro Sol or similar stuff on them and let them set 1 day.
-3. Spray again several coats of varnish and, when dry, gently sand down around the decal edges. You can use very thin and worn sandpaper, but I have the best results with the soft polishing sticks made by Umpretail. VERY IMPORTANT! You must always sand down the varnish, NEVER reaching the decal, otherwise you make a mess. This means a long job: spray, let it dry, sand down a small amount of varnish, spray again... You can also apply some unthinned varnish around the edge by brush, to have more material to sand down, and accelerate the process with a hairdryer, but it's a time consuming process nevertheless. I suggest to use Tamiya varnish because, as the paints of the same company, it can be sanded and polished as a putty.
-4. You can stop sanding when, after the last coat, you don't see any decal edge. Now you can go on with oil washes, matt or satin varnish and so on.

(https://s15.postimg.cc/as84nrcu3/180902_001_Pe2.jpg)

Hi Otto,
interesting technique indeed, so you use the trasparent paint as a sort of putty to level the thickness of the film. I have to test this method.
Regards
Massimo

Done!
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBwKDgBR/181022-003-Pe2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XvdHMjgs/181022-006-Pe2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3Jqnd4SL/181022-008-Pe2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFWxBk49/181022-009-Pe2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Ls3tBnDF/181022-016-Pe2.jpg)

Hi Otto,
great model indeed! It looks perfect. I like the figures and the ground a lot too.  Could you show closer images of the figures, please?
Regards
Massimo

Thank you, Massimo.
The mechanic is an old but not too bad plastic figure from ICM MiG-3 boxing. The bucket comes from the same kit.
The pilot is a resin copy of a Hecker & Goros metal figure, slightly modified.
I painted them by airbrush and brush with acrylics and some touches with oils. I used the techniques explained by Simon Antelmi in his Static Model Manual N.11, an useful guide in Italian and English which helps those who are not figure painting experts adding "people" to their models:
http://www.aurigapublishing.it/libri_det.asp?ID=156

(https://i.postimg.cc/13q23pQH/181010-002-Pe2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NFFPqXDR/181010-005-Pe2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZYW1QkM2/181020-003-Pe2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/L4gbTtqM/181022-007-Pe2.jpg)

Tanks making modellers have often good chances to hide mistakes under rags or mud stains. On aircrafts this is not so easy.
I use to apply some floor wax to clear parts to clean and polish them. There is nothing better than an empty liquid glue bottle with brush to have the wax always ready for use. But you have to be very careful and take the right bottle...  :'(
(https://i.postimg.cc/4dWw43FZ/180728-004-Pe2.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Ssx7PhQP/180728-005-Pe2.jpg)
I wanted to display the Pe-2 with an open engine and mechanics around, but after the disaster I decided to make it ready for a mission and a pilot complaining about the windows cleanness.  >:(

Tamiya glue on the window... luckily it was not one of the main glazing.  The idea of the diorama is excellent, luckily you found figures in suitable positions.
The perspective of the photo makes a strange joke, the bottles look huge while the fuselage seems of a 1/72 kit.
Are Vallejo paints suitable to be thinned with Tamiya thinner?
Regards
Massimo

Pe-2 is not a big aircraft, even in 1/48. Vallejo (normal paints, not "Air") are not the best with airbrush, but Tamiya thinner gets rid of nearly all acrylics. Just some lumps remain in the airbrush, so you have to clean it carefully.

I've utilized paints of Valleyo in recent time, to paint some figures by brush. I am considering if I can make some relaxed models here during the winter, without creating nocive smells in my home. The lemonene glue of Tamiya is not that good though, it can go where fitting is perfect but it is weak and slow compared to other glues.
Regards
Massimo

Hello Massimo. I am rather fundamentalist regarding modeling: I use products that guarantee the best result, no matter of smells. I think Tamiya green cap glue is the best. Perhaps it has no scent of lemonade, but usually glue has a very limited part in the modeller's stinky atmosphere. The main problem is with airbrush. If, instead of enamels you use water based acrylics, as Lifecolor, the smell is not dramatic. However, for best results you must use the producer's thinner instead of water.

Hi Otto,
I see about the quality and agree about the merits of the Tamiya green cap glue, but I will make massive use of solvants only in my attic and during the mild season. In winter, it is too cold and scarcely ventilated to stay there for long without health problems, and the use of solvants in my home would mean that I, and my familiars, have to convive with them even when I am not working on models.
Last two or three winters, I used to build partially the tanks that I completed on the following summers. One can build the most of pieces of a tank without painting them.
For a plane, it is different, it has to be painted since its starting, and building involves only a limited time.  So, if I'll build some planes in the winter, they'll be only cheap ones in relaxed way. Eventually I could wait for the spring to paint them by air brush.
Regards
Massimo