Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /membri/massimotessitori/sovietwarplanes/board/Sources/Load.php(225) : runtime-created function on line 3
ICM Tu-2 under construction
Sovietwarplanes
March 28, 2024, 12:45:50 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: This forum replaces the old sovietwarplanes.com whose domain has expired in January 2017. It has been updated with the posts of the year 2016.
The new location of the site 'Sovietwarplanes pages' is at http://massimotessitori.altervista.org/sovietwarplanes/pages/
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
Author Topic: ICM Tu-2 under construction  (Read 15013 times)
nsmekanik
Newbie
*
Posts: 47


« on: March 04, 2012, 12:01:27 AM »

You''l have to forgive me but this is a bit of a cut and paste from another forum

I started this one awhile ago, well, a long while ago




Due to a number of issues, like colour confusion and stepping on one of the canopies,



it went back into the box. Just recently I decided to dig it out and see how far I could get with it, of course the first thing in order is to finnish glueing on the nacelle.




I also managed to finish every bodies favourite chore



One thing I think is important to noteis the total amount of filler used on this kit so far





Logged
nsmekanik
Newbie
*
Posts: 47


« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2012, 12:02:58 AM »

It's not that bad, it just takes a bit of careful clean up and gluing, for the fuselage I started at the tail section and worked forward, carefully lining up each section doing one at a time. The reason there is any filler at all on the fuselage is that if you clean up the mating surfaces so they are flat and blemish free it will be to narrow for the canopies, you don't have a lot of leeway in cleaning up mating surfaces. And where there is filler I used tape on either side so as not to totally wipe out the detail.

Make sure all the mating surfaces are touching before you glue them, with the wings this is not difficult as there is a main spar, glue the tops on first and then the inner lower pieces, take your time in sanding and fitting them, and then the outer ones. Mostly I removed the locating pins from the parts.





Build the cowlings before you add the nacelles, as you will find a number of the parts will have to be bent into shape. The landing gear looks to be delicate(I pinned mine) but really once the nacelles are on it's quit sturdy. you could probably get away with adding them later, but I suspect it would be difficult and not worth the bother.

If you look closely at the bottom pic you will see the lower cover looks to be to narrow, but actually if you heat it up and flatten it, it fits good and the whole nacelle will be round as the cowlings. To add the nacelles, glue only the very back, not even all the way to the gear bay, just enough to hold them together. If you have checked them against the inner and outer lower wing panels and sanded everything down properly, you will get a seamless and step less joint when you go to glue the nacelles on. You will have to bend the nacelle half's a bit to get them to line up properly, do one side at a time working from the back to the front and leave the cowling surfaces to last, as the wing part has to be forced down a bit, and do not use the exhaust ring as a guide. The parts are not warped, but they do need to be prodded into proper shape.
Logged
learstang
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1863



« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2012, 01:09:26 AM »

Thank you for posting, and for the tips!  This will be an interesting build to follow, especially as I have this kit.

Regards,

Jason
Logged

"I'll sleep when I'm dead."

- Warren William Zevon
K.Ingraham
Jr. Member
**
Posts: 87


« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2012, 06:27:54 AM »

I have mine partially built but not nearly as far as you reached. The plastic in my kit (ICM, not encore) is pretty greasy & required a lot of cleaning with hot water and dish soap not only to allow paint to stick, but to keep my fingers from getting too greasy and leaving prints everywhere.
Logged
nsmekanik
Newbie
*
Posts: 47


« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2012, 06:52:23 AM »

Yes, now that you mention it, it's been a while since I first pulled it out of the box so yeah, I recall a fair amount of scrubbing  Grin .

I have some Vallejos, excellent paints. I recall reading somewhere that some one used MM German tank yellow, so I pulled out the paints that I have which should be similar. It still never ceases to amaze me how different each Manufactures interpretation of a supposedly single colour is



While the Vallejo German camo yellow looks to be similar to Humbrol 94 which is the cross reference from their old Authentics range, they aren't all that close. Maybe I'll paint up some swatches and get some opinions.

I cleaned up the bombs, and I decided it would be much easier in the long run to sand of the lifting band and replace it with some plastic strip after, I also added the fin braces.



what's interesting is that the ICM kit supplies 2 bombs, but only one is used, as an option for an open bomb bay. This may not be wrong, but from what little information I have there were 4 smaller bombs in the bomb bay, and these larger ones could be carried on the outside. If I can find better information on this i'm going to mount these, if not, well I'll see.

Here is a comparison between the ICM and the ones from the Amodel Er-2 kit






The ICM bombs come with 2 fins moulded on each half L shaped, where as the Amodel ones have 2 fins moulded as a flat piece on one half, and a separate single piece for the other two which slips through a slot in the other fin

here is just a bit of a size comparison, the engines are just set on the front of the nacelles at the moment as things are getting cleaned up.



Thanks guys, any tips and or technical advise greatly appreciated.
Logged
Dark Green Man
Sr. Member
****
Posts: 419



« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2012, 09:20:24 PM »

you are doing a better job on yours than I did on mine.
(I have 5 of them)
I would also like to see more of this Spitfire, that looks pretty good also.
(any secrets to masking the canopies?)
« Last Edit: March 07, 2012, 09:22:19 PM by Dark Green Man » Logged

"when we lose the right to be different, we lose the priviledge to be free"--Charles Evans Hughes
nsmekanik
Newbie
*
Posts: 47


« Reply #6 on: March 08, 2012, 12:45:27 AM »

I've kind of mucked it up a bit at the nacelle to upper wing joint, to much glue, I'll take pics later. I know this is a bit off topic and it's a 1/48 D190. but it illustrates my method which works as well in 1/72









Thin strips can be made to follow curves much more easily, and for rounded frames I use a circle template and cut out a half circle in the tap to the closest diameter. For the canopies like the Tu-2 I lay the strips down the full length of the frame so the intersect each other, then I fill in the centers, after which I cut out the intersections.
I hope this helps  Grin
« Last Edit: March 08, 2012, 12:47:23 AM by nsmekanik » Logged
nsmekanik
Newbie
*
Posts: 47


« Reply #7 on: March 08, 2012, 12:53:58 AM »

Spitfire is the Tamiya 1/72 and now a ceiling queen







« Last Edit: March 08, 2012, 12:56:28 AM by nsmekanik » Logged
Massimo Tessitori
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 6528


« Reply #8 on: March 08, 2012, 10:17:54 PM »

Hi Nsmechanic, interesting work.
About Soviet bombs (FAB-250?), there is a wide choice in the kit of the SB of ICM, and a pair in the Il-2 of Smer.
Regards
Massimo
Logged
nsmekanik
Newbie
*
Posts: 47


« Reply #9 on: March 09, 2012, 02:27:48 AM »

Thanks Massimo. I'm not to sure if I am going to use them, the problem i'l having is trying to figure out how the bomb mounts were under the wing, so far I have only managed to find these pics.





I think the ones supplied with the kit are ok to be used, as they will be under the wing, I would luv to get the ICM SB, but at the moment I'm not able to. Also, what would you recommend as a close match for A-21? i will update things in a few days as I do not do much modelling on my work days.
Logged
learstang
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1863



« Reply #10 on: March 09, 2012, 02:55:37 AM »

I don't know if this helps, because I know AMT-1 differed a little from A-21 in terms of colour, but I think a good analogue for AMT-1 is Testors Model Master '42 Afrika Dunkelgrau.

Regards,

Jason
Logged

"I'll sleep when I'm dead."

- Warren William Zevon
nsmekanik
Newbie
*
Posts: 47


« Reply #11 on: March 09, 2012, 11:34:57 PM »

Thanks Jason. Unfortunately I don't have that, but I do have Humbrol 94, Vellajo panzer dark yellow, Vellajo yellow ochre, and Pollyscale panzer dark yellow, which I am leaning toward. I will do some swatches I think in a bit.
Logged
learstang
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1863



« Reply #12 on: March 09, 2012, 11:43:24 PM »

Thanks Jason. Unfortunately I don't have that, but I do have Humbrol 94, Vellajo panzer dark yellow, Vellajo yellow ochre, and Pollyscale panzer dark yellow, which I am leaning toward. I will do some swatches I think in a bit.

You're going to post the swatches?  Good.

Regards,

Jason
Logged

"I'll sleep when I'm dead."

- Warren William Zevon
Massimo Tessitori
Administrator
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 6528


« Reply #13 on: March 10, 2012, 12:56:23 PM »

Hi Nsmekanik,
if you post scans of chips, please enclose something of known color in the photo for reference, the best thing would be a page of a FS catalogue.
Regards
Massimo
Logged
nsmekanik
Newbie
*
Posts: 47


« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2012, 03:15:39 PM »



I don't have an Federal standard fan, so this is the best I can do, from left to right, Humbrol 65, Vallejo Yellow Ochre, Vallejo German Camo Orange Ochre, Humbrol 94, Pollyscale Panzer yellow, and ModelMaster Interior Green FS 34151.
Logged
Pages: [1] 2
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!