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Author Topic: Pe-2 1/48 Zvezda  (Read 4937 times)
Massimo Tessitori
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« Reply #45 on: August 27, 2018, 12:21:43 PM »

Hi Otto,
perhaps Il-4s had not primer, were painted in A-xxm paints and very scratched, but I am not sure, it is an idea I made observing bw photos.
In my idea, it is possible to see yellow under the chipping of Pe-2, but I can't prove it for mid/late production planes.
Regards
Massimo
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otto
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« Reply #46 on: August 27, 2018, 12:59:46 PM »

Thank you Massimo, I will assume ALG-1 primer. I add other pictures. I modified some patches to better match the official templates, although it seems the real aircraft did not follow them strictly. I did not decide yet if making the winter camouflaged Pe-2 or a standard one.


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Massimo Tessitori
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« Reply #47 on: August 28, 2018, 07:45:43 AM »

Hi Otto,
Pe-2s often show camouflages that are a mix between the official templates. The look of the model is excellent so far.
Regards
Massimo
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otto
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« Reply #48 on: September 07, 2018, 07:03:53 AM »

Finally, I chose the well known, but evocative, "Leningrad-Koenigsberg" subject. It needs some more oil washes before spraying the matt varnish.




I have to paint the wheel discs. Can you please help me choosing the colour? I painted them dark green on my MiG-3, as shown in colour pictures. What's the correct colour for a late war Pe-2? The same green? ALG-5? A-14? HuhHuh?
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Massimo Tessitori
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« Reply #49 on: September 07, 2018, 10:10:02 AM »

Hi Otto, great work up to here.
About wheels, I don't know for sure. I would go with dark green.
Is the slogan a decal, or painted by masking?
Regards
Massimo
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otto
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« Reply #50 on: September 07, 2018, 11:18:31 AM »

Thank you, Massimo! The slogan is a decal from Zvezda Box. They are printed by Begemot, and are very thin and gloss. Unfortunately, the stars are slightly out of register and needed some touch-up. I don't like decals because it's always difficult to hide the edge. It's not about silvering: if the decal is good and you apply them on a glossy surface, improving adhesion with softeners, no silvering occurs. But it's not enough: the edge around the clear film of the decal is ALWAYS visible. My technique to hide it, when it's not possible to contour the decals, is the following.
-1. Spray a coat of Tamiya clear gloss X-22, diluted with thinner X-20A. WARNING! Apply several coats of well thinned varnish avoiding drippings, and at the end spray pure thinner to avoid "orange skin" effect.
-2. When the varnish is dry (at least 1 day) apply the decals and press them gently with toilet paper, if necessary cut them around movable surfaces like rudders. Brush a small amount of Micro Sol or similar stuff on them and let them set 1 day.
-3. Spray again several coats of varnish and, when dry, gently sand down around the decal edges. You can use very thin and worn sandpaper, but I have the best results with the soft polishing sticks made by Umpretail. VERY IMPORTANT! You must always sand down the varnish, NEVER reaching the decal, otherwise you make a mess. This means a long job: spray, let it dry, sand down a small amount of varnish, spray again... You can also apply some unthinned varnish around the edge by brush, to have more material to sand down, and accelerate the process with a hairdryer, but it's a time consuming process nevertheless. I suggest to use Tamiya varnish because, as the paints of the same company, it can be sanded and polished as a putty.
-4. You can stop sanding when, after the last coat, you don't see any decal edge. Now you can go on with oil washes, matt or satin varnish and so on.

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Massimo Tessitori
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« Reply #51 on: September 07, 2018, 01:25:30 PM »

Hi Otto,
interesting technique indeed, so you use the trasparent paint as a sort of putty to level the thickness of the film. I have to test this method.
Regards
Massimo
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otto
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« Reply #52 on: October 23, 2018, 08:45:14 PM »

Done!




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Massimo Tessitori
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« Reply #53 on: October 24, 2018, 09:21:53 AM »

Hi Otto,
great model indeed! It looks perfect. I like the figures and the ground a lot too.  Could you show closer images of the figures, please?
Regards
Massimo
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otto
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« Reply #54 on: October 24, 2018, 10:42:41 AM »

Thank you, Massimo.
The mechanic is an old but not too bad plastic figure from ICM MiG-3 boxing. The bucket comes from the same kit.
The pilot is a resin copy of a Hecker & Goros metal figure, slightly modified.
I painted them by airbrush and brush with acrylics and some touches with oils. I used the techniques explained by Simon Antelmi in his Static Model Manual N.11, an useful guide in Italian and English which helps those who are not figure painting experts adding "people" to their models:
http://www.aurigapublishing.it/libri_det.asp?ID=156




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otto
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« Reply #55 on: October 24, 2018, 10:54:25 AM »

Tanks making modellers have often good chances to hide mistakes under rags or mud stains. On aircrafts this is not so easy.
I use to apply some floor wax to clear parts to clean and polish them. There is nothing better than an empty liquid glue bottle with brush to have the wax always ready for use. But you have to be very careful and take the right bottle...  Cry


I wanted to display the Pe-2 with an open engine and mechanics around, but after the disaster I decided to make it ready for a mission and a pilot complaining about the windows cleanness.  Angry
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Massimo Tessitori
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« Reply #56 on: October 24, 2018, 06:27:37 PM »

Tamiya glue on the window... luckily it was not one of the main glazing.  The idea of the diorama is excellent, luckily you found figures in suitable positions.
The perspective of the photo makes a strange joke, the bottles look huge while the fuselage seems of a 1/72 kit.
Are Vallejo paints suitable to be thinned with Tamiya thinner?
Regards
Massimo
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otto
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« Reply #57 on: October 24, 2018, 06:39:46 PM »

Pe-2 is not a big aircraft, even in 1/48. Vallejo (normal paints, not "Air") are not the best with airbrush, but Tamiya thinner gets rid of nearly all acrylics. Just some lumps remain in the airbrush, so you have to clean it carefully.
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Massimo Tessitori
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« Reply #58 on: October 25, 2018, 09:36:52 PM »

I've utilized paints of Valleyo in recent time, to paint some figures by brush. I am considering if I can make some relaxed models here during the winter, without creating nocive smells in my home. The lemonene glue of Tamiya is not that good though, it can go where fitting is perfect but it is weak and slow compared to other glues.
Regards
Massimo
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otto
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« Reply #59 on: October 26, 2018, 11:31:50 AM »

Hello Massimo. I am rather fundamentalist regarding modeling: I use products that guarantee the best result, no matter of smells. I think Tamiya green cap glue is the best. Perhaps it has no scent of lemonade, but usually glue has a very limited part in the modeller's stinky atmosphere. The main problem is with airbrush. If, instead of enamels you use water based acrylics, as Lifecolor, the smell is not dramatic. However, for best results you must use the producer's thinner instead of water.
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