|
Massimo Tessitori
|
 |
« Reply #300 on: June 15, 2016, 07:34:15 PM » |
|
Hi,
are they made by paper or what else? I don't think that they can be made thinner, except if one makes them with paint only. Anyway a scale license for thickness is a common thing.
Regards
Massimo
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Markino
|
|
« Reply #301 on: June 15, 2016, 09:08:52 PM » |
|
Hi Massimo, yes, they are made by adhesive paper, adhesive labels to be exact. Indeed it would be a little difficult make them even thinner .... Well .... I will keep as they are ...  Next step will be the internal structure of the canopy. In photos it seem made by metal tube. I thought to made it by 0,5 mm plastic or copper rod... Suggestions are very well accepted  ! Ciao! Marco |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"If you want to get what you want
you need to get rid of the need."
|
|
|
|
Massimo Tessitori
|
|
« Reply #302 on: June 16, 2016, 06:52:20 AM » |
|
Hi Marco,
will adhesive labels be stable enough with time?
Regards
Massimo
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Markino
|
|
« Reply #303 on: June 16, 2016, 09:58:18 AM » |
|
Hi Massimo, I used adhesive label strips several times to made canopy frames and normally they are stable...I am talking about several years (5-8 years). Usually I put a very small amount of cyanoacrylate glue in the connecting point of the strips and on the edges of the part, trying to paste the strips outside and inside the canopy and its edge.... I hope to explain decently...  . Last evening I started to paste the internal tubular frames...I finally opted for 0,3 mm rods to copy the tubular structure.... Do you have some informations about canopy latch? How did the pilots to close it? Ciao! Marco |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"If you want to get what you want
you need to get rid of the need."
|
|
|
|
Markino
|
|
« Reply #304 on: July 21, 2016, 06:43:36 PM » |
|
Hello guys, some updates before painting and...summer holidays... Radio mast and upper balance mass on the rudder; two little half rings for the antenna wire...not much visible in truth :  The pitot tube:  Radio mast and ceramic insulator:  Lower balance mass under the rudder:  Some painted parts:  The GoNza main landing doors and the homebuilt tools and ejectors pin used to embossed the parts as required:  Almost completely painted main gear legs and tailwheel fork:  My cardboard homebuilt painting cabin and air compressor...homebuilt also... :   Now I flying towards the camo painting... Ciao! Marco |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"If you want to get what you want
you need to get rid of the need."
|
|
|
|
Massimo Tessitori
|
|
« Reply #305 on: July 25, 2016, 10:44:27 PM » |
|
Hi Marco,
I am highly impressed for your equipment. A painting cabin would be good for me too, but I have problems to connect it with the outside of a window.
A filter from an old kitchen is the best thing I found to reduce vapors.
Regards
Massimo
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
learstang
|
|
« Reply #306 on: August 01, 2016, 10:16:12 PM » |
|
Excellent work, Marco! I guess it won't be too long until you start the camouflage painting.
Regards,
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"I'll sleep when I'm dead."
- Warren William Zevon
|
|
|
|
Markino
|
|
« Reply #307 on: August 03, 2016, 09:43:00 AM » |
|
Massimo, maybe a pc fan and a cardboard box should solve your troubles with painting vapours. Like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbGJ4AiG6MA, plus a pc fan above or rear the box... I think it works well for painting in home... @Learstang: me too hope not too long time to start camo painting... Ciao! Marco |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"If you want to get what you want
you need to get rid of the need."
|
|
|
|
Massimo Tessitori
|
|
« Reply #308 on: August 03, 2016, 08:11:14 PM » |
|
Hi Marco,
the main problem is not the aspiration box, but a tube to discharge fumes outside. I have not windows on my worchbench, and a big flexible tube to the closer window is a problem.
Regards
Massimo
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Markino
|
|
« Reply #309 on: August 04, 2016, 08:33:32 AM » |
|
Massimo you could filter the air putting a kitchen filter rear the fan (or fans), making a filtering interspace between fan and outside of the box. Rear the filter you cuold put a short pipe. You have as result filtered air with no painting particulate and low smell of paint... Of course, if it is possible to do so where you live... Ciao. Marco |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"If you want to get what you want
you need to get rid of the need."
|
|
|
|
Markino
|
|
« Reply #310 on: August 07, 2016, 08:46:44 PM » |
|
Hi Massimo I wish to know if I can use your LaGG-3 white 20 profile ( http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/lagg3/44iap/44iap20.html) to obtain the profiles for rudder stars and number 20 and make painting templates with my Cameo cutting plotter. If possible I need also a airplane underside plan profile showing the stars under wings and their position. Thanks for all your help! Ciao! Marco |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"If you want to get what you want
you need to get rid of the need."
|
|
|
|
Massimo Tessitori
|
|
« Reply #311 on: August 08, 2016, 07:57:17 AM » |
|
Hi Marco, of course you can use the drawings as a base to cut masks, but I think that a plotter requires a vector drawing and I haven't it. So you have to vectorialize the digits manually. I haven't drawings from below showing the position of the stars. This can be obtained from photos, for example they are visible at http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/lagg3/44iap/44iap25.html that shows plane 25 of the same unit. Probably one can find images of wings from better perspectives, but if they aren't of the same factory, then it is not grated that the stars had the same location and size. Regards Massimo |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Markino
|
|
« Reply #312 on: August 08, 2016, 01:14:31 PM » |
|
Hi Massimo, many thanks for your courtesy to use your drawings. Yes, I have Inkscape as SVG software, so I think it will be not so difficult to obtain rudder stars and white numbers, starting from yours drawings. For the under wings stars I will try to deduce position and size from your link to white 25.... However we will talk about this after mountain holidays... Here some pictures after primer. I used the wonderful "Mr. Finishing surfacer 1500 gray" thinned by "Mr. Color Leveling Thinner", both from Gunze Sangyo. This primer is simply amazing! I used for years the spray can "surfacer primer L" by tamiya, but the Mr. Finishing is widely better. Surely more controllable with airbrush and a good thinning.     Obviously primer has showed those defects not otherwise visible and that must be corrected before going ahead... Ciao! Marco |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"If you want to get what you want
you need to get rid of the need."
|
|
|
|
Massimo Tessitori
|
|
« Reply #313 on: August 08, 2016, 03:59:01 PM » |
|
Hi Marco,
I'll try the primer and solvant you suggested, because I am not satisfied with the Tamiya primer, I have a can but I've utilized it only once because of the orange skin finish, too bad on details where not interested by modification works. Probably I'll use it on the turret of Chonma that I'm scratchbuilding.
By the way, I suggest to use another source for masks of stars. I'm not sure that those of the profiles have not any small perspectical warpage.
Regards
Massimo
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Markino
|
|
« Reply #314 on: August 09, 2016, 05:13:44 PM » |
|
Hi Massimo, yes, the orange skin finish is a common problem with primer spray can... You can solve definitively with Mr. Surfacer 1500...or similar... By the way, I suggest to use another source for masks of stars. I'm not sure that those of the profiles have not any small perspectical warpage.
Do you mean the color drawing profiles or the photos? I meant to use the color drawing profiles... Ciao! Marco |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"If you want to get what you want
you need to get rid of the need."
|
|
|
|
